To begin, scene-setting glasses of perfectly chilled Albet Noya Cava, fun to drink and bubbling with a special Spanish frivolity, Caramalised Olives hanging from a live bonsai-sized olive tree and tiny, sculptured Mushrooms Bombon bombarding the palate with ‘smashing’ explosions of tingling flavour.
Minutes later Veuve Clicquot to cope with the welcome sting of Anchovy Bones, Ring Calamar Adaptation, Green Salad and St George’s Mushroom Truffled Brioche. Delicate plates of passion offering glimpses of a masterful, grand cuisine.
A 2003 Renard Valmur Chablis, a 2008 Stephane Tissot Savagnin Arbois, Cherries, Elderberry & Smoked Eel, succulent, ethereal, everlasting….
Then the Charcoal-Grilled King Prawn with Acidulated Mushroom Juice materialised. In tender repose but with the mantle of unmistakable dignity the solitary decapod crustacean patiently awaited its final journey, carried off in an aromatic bath – a 2009 Nelin from Priorat. Another magnificent Roca Brother’s match.
We boldly toasted our good fortune with a Vina Tondonia Rosado from Rioja, a worthy blend of Tempranillo, Garnacho and Viura. The Onion Soup, Crespia Wans and Comte Cheese was love at first sight holding us paralysed with delight. The Sole, Olive Oil and Mediterranean Flavours proffered a sensuous necklace of five sauces each jostling for prominence, and a perfectly grilled fillet of fish. Unsurpassed excellence.
A sweet and luscious interlude with the Oloroso del Puerto Almacenista was a fitting fanfaronade to a frothy, smoky bath of Baby Squid with Onion rocks and Catalan Seafood Stew. Behold the Spiritus sanctus!
The ‘piece-de-resistance’ just had to be Joan Roca’s careful and composed, strikingly imaginative Steak Tartare with Mustard Ice Cream. A Santa’s sleigh of gastronomic terroir, impeccably adorned with droplets of mustard ice cream, mustard leaves, smoked paprika, curry, pickles, lemon and more. There were no dramatic heavenly thunderclaps or bolts of lightning striking the tines of my fork as I savoured every moment of this Bugatti Veyron experience, but the earth moved for me.
Joan’s Lamb with Peach Terrine scored top points for style, taste, and a beautiful sense of composure. Accompanied by a smooth glass of Anima Negra from Mallorca with its dark, ruby colour, rich cherry nuances and strong finish, the lamb, with its beautiful accompaniments was worthy of the highest praise. In the same pasture as the ovine came Green Colourology a polka dot collage of delicious, globulous verdancies and gelatinous translucences embodied in eucalyptus ice cream. Pure art.
A chilled Grans Fassian Kabinett rolled in the grass merrily with the elegant and suave Lemon Distillated Sorbet, quickly pursued by an Emrich-Schlonleber Halenberg Spatlese and Vanilla, Caramel, Liquorice, Dried and Caramelised Black Olives, a ‘rough’ filigree-topped dessert of robust definition and skillfully jumbled taste sensations.
Mi sincero da las gracias y la gratitud a los hermanos de Roca para una excelente tarde de cenar de multa y servicio impeccable – Mr Lu
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