Ratanui Lodge, Pohara

The pursuit of excellence is alive and well in Pohara, Golden Bay. To some a most unlikely place for such an activity but we all seek and find places in the world where we want to offer the best of ourselves to others, in our fields of expertise. Of course, you all know I’m writing about food and on this occasion I’m going to discuss Ratanui Lodge, an elegant lodge by the sea in a special part of New Zealand. Their essential, prime focus might be on the accommodation but I can assure you they do the restaurant part of their business with enviable skill and attention.

I was one of the fortunate few who dined there on Valentine’s Day, 2013. A very exciting menu, impeccable service and attention to detail made this a memorable evening, an unblemished standout for me.

Visit eatdrinkandwrite.com and look at the photos of the food, so carefully and exquisitely presented, so delicately arranged and so completely satisfying in all respects. A credit to the talented kitcheners out the back in the restaurant’s engine room.

We arrived and were welcomed by a smartly dressed Maitre’d who ushered us to a comfortable setting close to the bar; drinks were served and we knew we were not going to be rushed.

Waimea Dry Riesling 2006 was our poison of choice and helped us to enjoy the romantic hugs of aromatic honey and fruit leading us into temptation and a night of culinary joys commensurate with fine dining.

A set menu for Valentines Day sat well with us and we were ready for some pampering so a start of Gazpachio in an elegant bowl set the standard with style and grace. Every spoonful cooled the palate and brought dashing smacks of taste to the buds, delighting other senses in the process.

Follow this with a “Gently rubbed tenderloin of venison with blackberry jus & potato mash…and fresh local seasonal vegetables.” Sounds innocuous enough but let me tell you that the venison was an unequivocal expression of faith in this meat, a beautiful, memorable culinary contribution by the chef to the culinary world. High praise – yes, but entirely earned and warranted.

Presentation was pleasing to the eye, with long and solid beans, rough hewn splits of carrot and heads of broccoli sprouting up here and there. Very appealing indeed.

A bottle of Coopers Creek Chalk Ridge Syrah brought some of the Hawke’s Bay heat, black pepper and full body to the table in an admirable effort to complement the finesse of the rare flesh and embolden the vegetable accompaniments. It did so with aplomb.

The chocolate hearts took our hearts and cradled them with love. These were stunning representations of decadent tidbits, as predominantly alluring in taste as in appearance. Very fine indeed. Paired with Seifried Estate Sweet Agnes Riesling 2011, a tribute to local vignerons and a very good choice in every respect. Exceptional quality, stone fruits  a luscious presence with a good, lingering finish. I was happy, without doubt, and am certain you would have been also. Beautifully prepared food can be wonderful on its own but so often the experience can be immeasurably enhanced by matching a good wine. Think about how you can make every meal a masterpiece! Don’t forget – your body is a temple and requires a regular top up of  altar wine…

I will return.