Many of you will have been to Beijing many times and you will know, as I do, that there are so many hidden dining pearls in the Hutongs, down dimly lit alleyways and just about anywhere you can imagine - even in major hotels!
Local knowledge can be enormously valuable and I have oft relied on a Cantabrian in the food business in Beijing to throw interesting suggestions my way. Relying on Concierges at Western hotels is of little use as they have no personal experience dining at top restaurants other than in their own establishments; this time around my contact suggested I immerse myself in Yunnan Cuisine at Middle 8th Restaurant in the vibrant Sunlatin district (Where, incidentally, the NZ Embassy has relocated while renovations are being done at its usual location).
No selfish, self-serving foodie can avoid being moved by the aromas this restaurant thrusts under the nose and the tastes it massages the palate with; indeed, the sheer authenticity offered so far from home (Yunnan Province, SW China) is excruciatingly beautiful and gloriously delicious. As with so many quality restaurants in China the menu is, in itself, a spectacular & substantial, beautifully bound sacristy of pictorial wonder aided and abetted by textual content that does not fail to sweep the lucky consumer along on a journey of half-crazed delight.
It was close to 9pm when my companions and I swung in through the entry to be greeted by the expected immaculately dressed female staff, ushered to a table sumptuously beautified with gleaming glassware, spotless linen and deeply upholstered, “ may I lie down and meditate” bench seating.
It took us more than twenty pre-prandial minutes to digest the menu, explore the many and varied options and contemplate the extent of our adventure.
The Crispy chilli roasted pork – described simply as “Baby pig and sweet chilli” was important to keep the fat content coming in and add ever more necessary spice to our ‘reach for the skies’ lives. Some thought it might put a bit of lead back in to respective pencils but I think that’s beef’s forte….
Next, bring on the wild herb medicinal soup – yes, it may seem less than exciting with the word ‘medicinal’ in there but the very essence of Yunnan food is its connection with the earth, its love affair with roots and herbs and the everpresent damp, tropical nuances that prevail so longingly in that deeply southern, earthquake-prone and mountainous region. I know well that the restorative and recuperative powers of Chinese medicinal herbs, present in many foods and soups, is an endearing attraction especially when coupled with indescribably beautiful flavours that make the heart literally sing.
Sauteed top grade beef tenderloin with wild Porcino mushrooms found instant favour with me and my fellows. I admit we often use the words soft and succulent when talking about fine cuts of beef but these words do convey well the sense of the food. Mushrooms are everywhere in Yunnan and the Chinese are the consummate masters of Fungi fun and finesse; if you like these most exotic of foods then this is for you. So many mushrooms, so many distinctive differences in taste and flavour, so many ways to maximize the delivery and elevate the appeal of this exceptional food type.
Still on the subject of fungus – a very pungent Shrimp paste omelette with black fungus is a heart-stopping, show-stealer that may not appeal to everyone but it had strong, wet earth influences, evocative of forest floors, water-logged clay, dripping leaves, even flood damaged carpet steaming in the sun. This was a dish of, again simply, scrambled egg with black fungus and salted shrimp paste. Never, ever, underestimate the power of a few well chosen ingredients to combine and make magic.
Mud Chunk Tiramisu was our little tribute to decadence and a chance to indulge in something creamy, soft and luxurious before finishing off with cups of Pu’er Tea, aged for 8 years. This is one I won’t forget and hope to return when next in Beijing.
