Ratanui Lodge, Pohara

The pursuit of excellence is alive and well in Pohara, Golden Bay. To some a most unlikely place for such an activity but we all seek and find places in the world where we want to offer the best of ourselves to others, in our fields of expertise. Of course, you all know I’m writing about food and on this occasion I’m going to discuss Ratanui Lodge, an elegant lodge by the sea in a special part of New Zealand. Their essential, prime focus might be on the accommodation but I can assure you they do the restaurant part of their business with enviable skill and attention.

I was one of the fortunate few who dined there on Valentine’s Day, 2013. A very exciting menu, impeccable service and attention to detail made this a memorable evening, an unblemished standout for me.

Visit eatdrinkandwrite.com and look at the photos of the food, so carefully and exquisitely presented, so delicately arranged and so completely satisfying in all respects. A credit to the talented kitcheners out the back in the restaurant’s engine room.

We arrived and were welcomed by a smartly dressed Maitre’d who ushered us to a comfortable setting close to the bar; drinks were served and we knew we were not going to be rushed.

Waimea Dry Riesling 2006 was our poison of choice and helped us to enjoy the romantic hugs of aromatic honey and fruit leading us into temptation and a night of culinary joys commensurate with fine dining.

A set menu for Valentines Day sat well with us and we were ready for some pampering so a start of Gazpachio in an elegant bowl set the standard with style and grace. Every spoonful cooled the palate and brought dashing smacks of taste to the buds, delighting other senses in the process.

Follow this with a “Gently rubbed tenderloin of venison with blackberry jus & potato mash…and fresh local seasonal vegetables.” Sounds innocuous enough but let me tell you that the venison was an unequivocal expression of faith in this meat, a beautiful, memorable culinary contribution by the chef to the culinary world. High praise – yes, but entirely earned and warranted.

Presentation was pleasing to the eye, with long and solid beans, rough hewn splits of carrot and heads of broccoli sprouting up here and there. Very appealing indeed.

A bottle of Coopers Creek Chalk Ridge Syrah brought some of the Hawke’s Bay heat, black pepper and full body to the table in an admirable effort to complement the finesse of the rare flesh and embolden the vegetable accompaniments. It did so with aplomb.

The chocolate hearts took our hearts and cradled them with love. These were stunning representations of decadent tidbits, as predominantly alluring in taste as in appearance. Very fine indeed. Paired with Seifried Estate Sweet Agnes Riesling 2011, a tribute to local vignerons and a very good choice in every respect. Exceptional quality, stone fruits  a luscious presence with a good, lingering finish. I was happy, without doubt, and am certain you would have been also. Beautifully prepared food can be wonderful on its own but so often the experience can be immeasurably enhanced by matching a good wine. Think about how you can make every meal a masterpiece! Don’t forget – your body is a temple and requires a regular top up of  altar wine…

I will return.

 

The Naked Possum

 

Nude possums are not the norm; in fact I openly admit to never having seen one so the realization that, whilst on holiday in Golden Bay recently, I had the chance to visit a café in the sticks called ‘The Naked Possum’ set my heart a fluttering with excitement.

Of course, I was not really expecting to be greeted at the café by a fully shaved possum or, indeed, a person dressed as a naked possum but, as they say, you never quite know…

The NP’s website tells us “The Naked Possum is situated beside the Kaituna river at the base of the Kaituna walking track in Golden Bay. A 14km drive inland from Collingwood township, 2km along an unsealed road from the Kaituna bridge turnoff.”  

Driving anywhere in Golden Bay is a glorious  pleasure, the roads uncluttered & the weather in summer faultless,  but I can tell you that turning off the main road at Collingwood and heading for the mountains where, pretty much at the end of the road, wild foods aplenty await, brings with it a certain ramping up of tinglingly  good feelings. Thankfully the road isn’t tar-sealed all the way in and the shingle & talcum powder fine dust set the scene nicely.

Even on a warm and sunny afternoon the fire in the covered outdoor dining area was burning, the smoke from the huge fireplace wafting across the tables, a curative for all our city ailments, if you know what I mean…

Music piped through the strategically placed speakers seemed somehow inappropriate in such a lovely, serene location especially as we just wanted to loll about soaking up the natural vibe of the surrounding hills rather than the artificial vibe of commercial music.

Nevertheless, we were there to enjoy the food, as much has been written about the wild game pies on the menu. I couldn’t resist the Tahr open sandwich with its hearty slabs of meat, lashings of salad, slices of tomato, cucumber and a giant dollop of chutney. Wild Tahr have been roaming the Southern Alps for over 100 years and these Tibetans are now relatively freely hunted. Nonetheless, this ‘goat’  meat with its rich, almost venison-like  flavours and intensity  isn’t commonly found on supermarket shelves. This particular meal was a little overcooked for my liking(the meat) and overshadowed by the powerful chutney. In spite of this I did enjoy the experience and have resolved to try tahr cooked in different ways when the opportunity next presents itself.

I purchased a couple of frozen pies to enjoy on subsequent days – a venison and a goat curry – both provided me with tasty, filling lunches on my return to the golden sands of Tata Beach. The hearty venison pie I chose to eat with mashed potatoes and green beans and a glass of Gimblett Gravels Cab/Merlot, the goat curry pie with cucumber and yoghurt and a cold glass of Macs Ale. I only wish I had bought more as these were true expressions of Kiwi pie-making excellence.

 

Eatery on The Rock, Takaka

 

 

There’s Middle Earth and there’s the End of the Earth; Golden Bay used to be known to many as the latter, in fond, envious expressions of affection, a place where a suburban holidaymaker could escape the fiendish grind of city life, absorb the tranquilities associated with the fascinating tidal range and eat organic food.

Visitors have been conquering the Takaka Hill for a long time and an inspection of the impressive collection of Visitors’ Books at the Bancarri Eel Farm/Nature Park will reveal overseas guests as far back as the 1920s. There’s much of a sense of timelessness in the region and many still see the bay as an unspoilt utopia. It is one of my favourite places.

In mid February I made my 20^th annual trip and was once again not disappointed in any way, shape or form. Remarkably, considering all those trips, I had never dined at Eatery on the Rock Restaurant, just past Paynes Ford (don’t you just love it?)on the road in to Takaka.

A typical sultry summer evening, not a breath of wind and the stomach needed feeding. The restaurant is perched above the road in a setting featuring karst rock formations, chalet accommodation and attractive gardens. Methinks this has been a work in progress for many years, a sort of labour of love for the owners who have created a somewhat eclectic venue with what appears to be plywood lined walls, Tapa cloth wall hangings, local art and a very personal, hands on style where the owners interact with the guests in a welcoming, charming way.

A rich, thick chicken soup with natural, luscious flavours was paired with hot, home made bread, good New Zealand butter and followed shortly thereafter with a temperature perfect glass of Te Mania Three Brothers (Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc) . The restaurant filled up quickly between 7 and 8pm but our mains nonetheless arrived without too much delay; for me a 200g rib-eye, medium-rare, with carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans and corn to accompany in modest enough quantities to satisfy. Whilst  far from avant-garde in presentation or composition the food was true to its maker and a cab sauv from Sunset Valley organic wines in the Upper Moutere was nothing less than a desirable accelerant to the fire of enjoyment of a good food and wine match.

No desert, just coffee this time, total $120.00 for two.

 

Mussel Inn, Golden Bay

There are times when the great unwashed have called me a smarmy, smart-arsed bastard but I always like to think that those without sin should cast the first stone. I’ve never tried to muscle in where I’ve not been wanted but when in Golden Bay you very much MUST do the Mussel Inn. My perfect travelling companion and I flexed the better than equine-like muscles of our metallic steed one lunchtime en route to join other members of the Inn crowd at the MI. Many of you who have had the pleasure of visiting the area will know that the Mussel Inn is famous for its unparalleled, untouched world atmosphere and live music. Some have extolled the virtues of its food and that’s eminently fair also! Good, honest, edible fare – yes! Gems for the palate – perhaps, perhaps….

However, this is a place you visit to absorb and imbibe, take in the exquisite uniqueness of the Great Depression décor, the clutching and grabbing encroaching foliage and have a good time. Leave your high heels in the car, take off your reefer jacket and leave your 5 Star dining attitude at the door because this is a one of the kind, get down and dirty (in a nice kind of way), let it all hang out venue.

Ok, ok, I was there at lunchtime and some of this might seem irrelevant but just painting the picture…..there are layers to any canvas.

Let’s just back up a little and return to the wisdom of written accuracy….I had Green Tea -  no alcohol as I had a long drive ahead so erred on the side of caution. Let it here be stated that I do not approve of drinking and driving and a taxi back to Tata Beach let alone Christchurch would have caused my bankers to put a contract on me.
A vegetarian burger with falafel and an egg on top was a sufficient prod at my hunger and this was surprisingly tasty for one who is not a Vegetarian but who will sometimes venture into what for some is forbidden territory! It was excellent and filling and complemented my pot of Green Tea. Falafel is a fav of mine.
I just love the well-worn wooden floors, the old 19^th Century doors, the chunky, smooth-from-use outdoor furniture, the verandahs, corrugated iron, olde world atmosphere. I know well this is a venue that pumps in the evenings and well into the nights and so for you it is a case of forewarned is forearmed. Go and have some fun! It’s likely to stave off any hint of Muscular atrophy…..

 

 

 

 

TopHouse Historic Inn

The wind rustled through the stand of 30 metre tall Gum trees, the toetoe swayed hypnotically below and the aural pleasure of trickling water  offered much to the sense of place, the tranquility of the moment at the historic, unforgettable Tophouse Hotel(known as Tophouse Historic Guest House). From my vantage point on a weatherbeaten bean-bag perched on a grassy slope I was able to survey the great landscape below whilst enjoying the simplest of comforts, a cold, naturally brewed, local “Bays” beer, the occasional buzz of a good old Kiwi country fly and a wasp or two and, more importantly I submit, the hospitality of Jennifer Sloots, a woman who has chosen this alluring corner of the world to revive a captivatingly beautiful old property that dates back to 1887. On a hot February day I was welcomed on to the property, made to feel at home with a mini tour of the house and given food and drink options. The tiny, sleepout-sized, rough and ready bar tacked on the end of the building has a fair enough range of beverages and I was asked to “go and help yourself to whatever you want and we’ll settle up later.” How trusting, how thoroughly delightful, how refreshing, how different to the way things are done in the world today…
We drink , we eat – it is an essential part of one’s daily experience! The menu changes frequently at Tophouse and on this day the Beer Battered Snapper and chips had to be the winner to match with my Bays brew. Admittedly the quantity of chips dwarfed the sanguine seafood star and the accompanying salad was mediocre at best, but fresh and certainly needed to offset the battalion of chips. I savoured much the flesh of the snapper and basked in bucolic bliss, adding another beer to a stable of empties…..and it all seemed fine to me, having somewhat earlier relocated from beanbag to an attractive, ultra-rustic, lichen-bedecked outdoor setting with attendant umbrella to keep the force of the summer heat in check.
I left with the feeling that Jennifer and her 126 year old stone and timber business partner are committed to providing a memorable, old worlde hospitality experience for guests who stay in the accommodation and that she would not be averse to cooking up your special requests should that be your wont. Her dinner menus feature vegetarian options and often some interesting and unexpected surprises. It would be fair to suggest that for most of us, travelling is about finding true gems, places to eat, drink & stay that offer an experience removed from the ordinary. In my opinion there’s gold in them there hills at Tophouse.

 

The Curator's House, Christchurch Central

After a memorable month of  frenetic air travel and a maddening schedule in the two most populous  and inspirational countries in the world, the prospect of a relaxed lunch within the utterly spectacular, tranquil  grounds of  Christchurch’s Botanic Gardens was an irresistible one.

The Curator’s House is an interesting  harbergery that will not disappoint you as it offers such a  credible, tangible link with this city’s past, its volcanic stone walls so much a part of what we all remember as youngsters in our ‘old’ town, its position inside the Gardens offering a magnificent outlook across the grounds to the north. I was deeply struck by the clarity of the air, the beautiful vividity of the natural colours of the grass, the plants and the flowers after the polluted hazes of the megalopolises of India and China; and then there were the birds – atwittering in the trees to produce an uplifting natural symphony of indescribable joy. It was good to be home!

Whether you find yourselves at a table under an umbrella on the patio, perched on the delightful verandah or inside looking out the leadlight windows the experience is likely to be an agreeable one.

A glass of Main Divide Pinot Noir 2009 was an adequate enough way to settle in and it worked well enough with the “homemade” smoked Paprika and pork chargrilled shoulder chorizo, agria potato slices & sautéed pimentos, the entrée. The standout at this stage of the meal, however, was the sautéed fresh spinach with pine nuts and raisins – a simple yet felicitous combination of ingredients, an effusive detonation of taste!

Hot on the heels of the entrée was the house’s much acclaimed Lamb Chilindron, “tender lamb cooked in a traditional ragout topped with crispy diced potatoes”. Arguably not the best choice on a warm summer’s day but easily complemented with a side salad or the sautéed spinach mentioned above.  The wine list is worth a scan when dining here as there is a creditable selection of Hawke’s Bay  and Australian reds along with a palatable cross-section of New Zealand whites to suit all tastes. From Spain comes  everything from Sangria,  to Rioja reds, Pedro Ximenez port and Fino sherry.

I am keen to try the house specialty on my next visit, Paella Mixta,   as this will be a true test of the restaurant. “Chicken and seafood tossed with Saffron scented rice, tomatoes and vegetables”. ¡Yo no puedo esperar!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aikmans

Desperate to wrench my post-festive-season-abused , bad-food-bashed blubbery, man-boob dominated body from the well-worn but welcoming living room couch I thrust my person out the door and presented myself at the eatery known to us all as Aikmans. You’ve all been there and if you haven’t it behoves you to give it a try as it offers a surprising touch of elegance of décor, in a St Tropez gin-palace kind of way. Luxuriate on soft furnishings, inside or out, and sip your wine without a care in the world as you scan all that lies before you.
Spacious and comfortable, open and airy, you will find it relaxing if your sensibilities match mine and you appreciate the effort that has gone into a workable restaurant fit-out.
But does the service meet expectations? There have been some criticisms over time and some are fair enough; Christchurch in general has an appalling record in this area, with the city’s cafes and restaurants widespread inability to meet consumers’ standards, a glaring lack of staff training evident everywhere and a seeming lack of concern about this. Harsh perhaps but a visit to Wellington will proffer a swift reminder of what should be available…Christchurch has lost so many experienced wait staff since the earthquakes and there has been a frantic rush by cafes and restaurants to reopen, re-establish and capitalize on the gold rush. Most places have been very busy and I am betting there either has been no time put aside for effective staff training or these businesses have just not been able to find trained, experienced staff. Can you forgive this?
On my relatively recent visit Aikmans did not suffer from any of the above and the staff served my needs in a prompt, polite and professional manner. Of course, I never look for trouble, as such, or seek to vilify a business but will not retreat from making relevant observations.
A glass of Moet is ever a vein fizzing way to start lunch and as we Kiwis never balk at a bowl of seafood chowder and a dose of fish and chips the choice of what to eat was made accordingly. In reference to the latter it has oft been suggested that we are bonded to batter perhaps even more than the English, the world’s most prolific consumers of this dish and that we have taken it to a much higher and more palatable level than anyone thought possible in the Colonies.
The chowder passed muster with its chunks of edible goodness, its smooth, tasty textures, olfactory pleasing oceanic aromas and flavours befitting creatures of the deep.
The champagne kept coming, washing its gentle swell over me, casting me away to my fantasy island, far from the interminable jostling and crunching of my inner city life.
Fizzing like a soap-powered 1950s toy metal boat in the bath, I blubbered with excitement at receiving my plate of battered Gurnard, soon calming down as the inexorable connection with the Canterbury Coast & Pegasus Bay set in and impressed upon me a joyful reminder of what eating local fare is all about. Yes, admittedly the fish was coated in batter but oh so evocative of childhood days eating f & c wrapped in newspapers. The taste is still there, the thoughts run beautifully rampant through my mind and it mattered not that what I was eating was on a plate instead of in paper!
I stayed with the Moet for more than a Moet longer, drifting on my very own sea of satisfaction, gazing at the land beyond…..

Cafe Metro - Cranford Street, Christchurch

CAFE METRO CRANFORD ST
There’s nothing more irksome to many of us than the dilution of a product’s attractiveness to a consumer through duplication; among other things the exclusivity factor is removed. The sense that you are enjoying the fruits of a creative person’s labour is somehow dissipated and you get what Christchurch has become notorious for, the utter despair of diners at the sameness prevailing across the suburbs. Points of difference are hard to spot beyond the colour of the tables and chairs or the view from the windows.
Metro Café has recently opened on Cranford St at the northern end of a new block of shops; I’m sorry to have to be so depressingly frank but this place has nothing about it that makes one want to linger longer than it takes to purchase requirements, all of which, I might add, are more than likely to have been prepared off-site so have endured a journey of sorts. Cranfords’s sister café, Metro Papanui Rd, doesn’t even have a kitchen so don’t dare to ask if they have a menu or for an order of poached eggs on toast!
Be this as it may, people flock to such premises for coffee and cake, sandwiches and sausage rolls. In amongst the usual edible café flotsam there will occasionally be a sort of black sheep of the family that offers a welcome relief from the other choices. A Salmon omelette with a side of mixed salad was the welcome alternative. Said well-rested salad boasted beetroot, zucchini, feta cheese,onion, tomato, kumera, pumpkin, red pepper and plenty of green leaves, an unmitigated boost to the immune system as well as a boon to the tastebuds.
Coffee average to good, perfectly suited to anyone on the run but otherwise this establishment is utterly lacking in anything likely to cause you to linger.
Footnote: The reason this has been posted under Merivale Metro is that this cafe (Cranford St) cannot be found in Yellow or Whitepages online so can't be listed as a new cafe on DineOut. Perhaps they don't want to be found....

The Best of Bainham - The Old Langford Store

The spectacle before us was a quintessential early to mid twentieth century wooden general store and post office, thoroughly and beautifully iconic in its very essence, graceful to a nail and so genuinely captivating.
The Langford Store is a Golden Bay cultural institution in many ways as it exemplifies aspects of everyday life as New Zealanders lived it through much of the early to mid 1900s, in the days before supermarkets and shopping malls. The “local store”was a centre of activity and when it included a post office was somewhere people gravitated to even moreso.
Bainham, of course, has never quite been a thriving centre and one doubts a supermarket will ever be seen within 50 kilometres of the place; how fortunate for the area you could suggest.
However, the store has lived on through the times and is now very much a tourist attraction, its postal facilities although limited, are still offered and there is much merchandise to choose from within the store itself. After an enthralling look through the mini art gallery/museum in what must have been a workshop long ago, I sat on a comfortable old chair on the verandah of the shop, quietly ruminated, sipped my cup of English Breakfast tea and nibbled away at a most excellent, hot and moist scone covered in generous, utterly luxurious blobs of whipped cream and fresh raspberry jam. My pot of tea presented well with a brilliant, coloured woollen tea cosy and I felt myself being whisked back to the days I spent with my lovely old grandmother. Her teapot always had a knitted tea cosy on it.
Visit the “Bainham Store” and prepare to be charmed, both by the delightful proprietress and the rugged, wrinkled but oh so perfect store. The scones and other tidbits are the icing on the cake and well worth a small investment to enjoy. It would surprise me if you didn’t experience a tinge or two of nostalgia and a haybarn full of happiness.