Ryugin Tokyo

May 2014

Ryugin Tokyo  - 3 Michelin Stars

 

Amandine De Sousa played her part as Maitre ‘D/Server at this exceptional restaurant with consummate skill and an air of the ‘exotique’; her detailed knowledge of each dish as it was brought to the table held this Oriental  feast of delicacies together with a comfortable continuity, the provenence of key elements slipped off her tongue like silken words of delight and fanned the flames of my excitement as I knew I was enjoying the very best that this very different, interesting and ancient country had to offer. My menu this evening was entitled “Plating the Prodigality of Japanese Nature...” and was ceremoniously handed to me, duly signed by the Master himself at the end of the evening as I was ushered to my waiting car. A gracious and very civilised send off indeed and one to be remembered for a long time.

As with so many things in Japan, Nihon Ryori Ryugin Restaurant is small in size, seating a mere 24 people, yet offering so much space between tables. There was enough room to breathe, to converse and to not be distracted by the goings on at other tables. The balance seemed right, the acoustics well considered and the sense of style understated yet so quintessentially Japanese. When booking you are asked not to wear perfume or heavy scents during your visit so as not to overpower the tastes and smells of the meal.  In pursuit of perfection....

I knew this evening was going to be special, I expected it to be so; after all this is a Michelin 3 Star establishment with a reputation extending around the world and currently holding the position of No.33 in the World’s Top 50.  To my delight there were no noisy Westerners – certain nationalities are known to speak very loudly in quiet spaces and can ruin a good evening in a restaurant – and top establishments are often  overrun by our  friends from these places I’d have to advise....

Chef Seiji Yamamoto’s work is that of creative genius, the perfect place for those who worship at the altar of food to receive the communion of the hot and the cold, to embrace with enormous respect the tributes to animal, fish and plant that are so divinely represented in the 10 or so Courses offered for One’s approval each evening.

The 24 seats were all occupied on this Thursday evening in May, a mixture of Chinese Mainlanders, French, Japanese and Korean guests by my determination, all floating down a river of pure gastronomy, splashing lightly the gently placed portions with a sip of wine from the impressive wine list, here and there.

It all began, after the obligatory glass of Moet and Chandon 2004 and Japanese citrus,  with a variety of sensations...seasonality, aroma, temperature, texture and assemblage. The challenge, not at all difficult, was to love this food, these dishes, with the same depth of feeling as Mr Yamamoto himself; appreciate the seasonality of what was before you, inhale and joyously bask in the aromas, feel the temperatures(hot or cold), stop in wonderment at the variety of textures and truly marvel at the manner in which it had all been assembled. Assorted Summer vegetables with Shellfish and a sip of Clam Clear Soup, cold and hot sensations together and then in quick time Grilled Corn & Fresh Sea Urchins with 3 kinds of Leeks, a cold dish. The word “assembly” keeps springing to mind when I reflect on these dishes as this is a critical component of this chef’s modus operandi – the assembly of the dishes allows for individual flavours and textures to be drawn out and isolated at the time of enjoyment, the moment of eating! Suddenly, what seems on the plate to be a very small portion becomes so much larger than life, its length and scope so bold yet so delicate and understandable. You feel you are experiencing the essence of the ingredients, the best that the foods can offer you. The craftsmanship and passion of the chef honours the food and gives it its best chance to shine.

A glass or two of Grosset WaterVale Riesling 2011 from our friends in the Clare Valley, South Australia hit the spot nicely  at this stage of the evening. Light straw in colour, dashing in presence and vibrancy, proud, uplifting aromas, good fruit and enough balance to win on the night.

The second course was called “Philosophy on the Ichiban Dashi – Taste of the Wind that Captures a Moment”. This hot dish was a sumptuous, soft yet beautifully textured Kuruma Prawn Dumpling in Luxurious Presentation as described on the menu. Effulgent and organoleptic, the lavish, rounded, glowing, worthy  mass looked almost too beautiful to eat! Alas! The fate of all food, however pretty and perfectly placed is to last but a moment or two in time before disappearing forever. Perhaps this is one of the incurable fascinations some of us have with food – as an art form it is so completely ephemeral, you must get all you can from it before it has gone! A fleeting moment  to intensify your appreciation and absorb what magnificence is on offer! It’s not something you can do with all food.....

“A Message from the Coast of Japan – Richness of the Sea, Tidal Current”. Now doesn’t that excite you? It did me and yet so simple words. What a sensation! An array of 7 plates, Ocean’s Delicacy, Ryugin style. A much applauded, lauded and lusted-after offering, this journey around the coast was a precious indulgence, a sashimi inspired gift of Omega 3;  a collop of straw-smoked Bonito, a flounder, monkfish liver, mackerel with sesame sauce and wasabi, squid with salt & lime, shrimp and ginger soy sauce with fresh cucumber and finally abalone liver custard with hairy crab. Nine small green maple leaves  lounged in silence about the platter adding more to the decorative dimension of it all. Each piece of fish, sliced and placed, each garnish, each sauce carefully matched to bring out the best of taste and skilfully stop you from moving on to the next. It took an hour to make my way around the plate, savouring Ryugin’s combinations, letting these experiences of seafood and sauce melt away, one by one. Seafood presented in all its naturalness, so absolutely perfect.

On to the next course “Exquisiteness – Power of the Ingredients”. Fig with sesame dressing (cold)and foie gras and Firefly squid and young peas (hot). The juxtaposition of hot and cold is indeed a powerful opiate, you might say, as it plays a tune of curious vivacity in the mouth, the firefly squid seemingly dancing and prancing from cheek to cheek.....the fig and sesame, conversely, in soulful refrain.  What Stars these two were! The squid, whole and tentacular, precocious and impatient on the plate, its verdant pod accomplices inducing an almost frenzied, slavering desire in the beholder to consume this frivolous jezebel in haste in between gobbled mouthfuls of plump, squishy peas. The textures, oh the textures, so well played! Let’s not forget the fig and the sesame, a cool, flavoursome charge to fill the mouth, caress the tastebuds and tease the mind. More, more, more.......

Western Pacific Hot Cherry Salmon (Oncorhynchus masou, known as the Masu salmon)from Hokaido, a powerful scent of the charcoal grill – Binchotan, with Okara, fresh Basil and flavoured vegetables, green onion oil and cherry leaf, basking in the subdued restaurant lighting and in glorious accompaniment atop a plain earthenware dish that itself seemed to emit a warm, suffusive glow to complement the hot salmon fillet. The okara, for all its blandness and pallidity, offered up a soft, fibrous texture so willing and yielding to the vegetables so finely integrated within the roughly fashioned balls. The special taste and gentle fragrance of cooked salmon has always appealed to me and this soft aquatic slab of flesh served that image well, the forces within bursting forth at first bite, a fine, aromatic release of smooth, sensuous flavour and taste.

An apple and ginger palate cleanser arrived at this point, just over the half way mark!

For the rest of the evening the dishes were hot and a flick of the eyes to the menu at this point confirmed that my next course was one I would enjoy with the 2005 Napa Valley McKenzie-Mueller Cab Franc I had just ordered. Herbaceous yes, with hints of tobacco, dark spice and green peppers – I hoped the grass fed free range Akage Beef from Aso would pair well with this robust Californian and take me to a place of gustatory worship in the heavens  high above the Tokyo skyline...

Prepared in charcoal, Sukiyaki style with a crispy poached egg itself encased in a crusted orb and with a grilled spear of white asparagus on top, the medium-rare ambrosial fillet exuded the timeless charms of beautifully prepared fine quality beef, offering nothing less than the exquisite multi-dimensionality of traditional  taste,  perfect bovine texture and avante-garde presentation  to deliver a truly appreciated experience to this pleasure-seeking carnivore.

A pause to finish my glass of wine, then another. Amandine approached and asked if the pace of the evening was to my satisfaction; it was important, she suggested, that her guests were relaxed and comfortable and did not feel under any pressure to complete the meal in any predetermined time frame. “We will adapt to your requirements” she advised.

All in good time, and certainly to my complete satisfaction, the next course came contained within  three bowls and was described as. “The Land of Rice Plants  -  Pleasure of Eating of the Same Trencher, Niigata Rice”. A hot dish of simmered rice flavoured with Cherry Blossom tea  and, separately, Sakura Shrimp from Surugawan Bay. Thirdly, this course tempted the palate and teased the tongue with pickles and shrimp-based Red Miso soup. For me, however,  the least enjoyable of the dishes thus far, the bowl of deep fried shrimps overwhelming the other elements just too much for my liking.

Lusciousness came next! Cold & Hot together. One piece of strawberry, two pieces of strawberry and more complemented with a delectable dollop of Saki flavoured homemade ice cream and a Souffle flavoured with Saki! A  Yamamoto special that exploded in the mouth to leave one chortling with delight. To quote the S Pelligrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants Guide, “Hot and cold play a key role, and is taken to a new level with RyuGin’s signature dessert. Candied fruit is frozen to -196° using liquid nitrogen and then filled with a hot liquid version of the same fruit.” A winning sensation, a memorable mouthful, a desirable combination to push the buttons of dining joy in no uncertain terms.

Matcha to finish.

Y40,000 per person including 4 wines by the glass.

Roots -Lyttelton, Christchurch

April 2014

“As the seasons come and go our dishes change with the flavours and colours of our environment.”
Proprietors Guilo and Christy move in sync with the seasons, in colour, in flavour and in fresh produce selection. It takes a lot of confidence and more than a dash of courage to accept the challenge of reflecting the changing seasons in your ever-changing offerings to the random and the righteous on a nightly basis. In Guilo’s case there is also the incontrovertible presence of talent, his exquisite displays of plated artistry so eminently photogenic, the promised flavours so evident, so bewilderingly beautiful and the wine pairing by Christy so skilfully executed, so thoroughly ‘right.’
In the somewhat austere interior setting of Roots Restaurant there is little hint of luxury, a deliberate (perhaps) absence of expensive embellishments and accoutrements giving you, the guest, an immediate sense of where the priorities lay and what to expect during your stay. The emphasis and the focus is on the food at this outstanding establishment.
Christy served our table of three with efficiency and warmth, choosing the moments to approach, clearly describing each course, all 8 of them, on delivery to the table. We found the time between courses more than adequate for conversation and to reflect on what we had just eaten, to finish our matched wines and to await with alacrity the next course.
Depending on where in the restaurant you choose to sit, you may have a view of the kitchen and be rewardingly entertained by the pleasing spectacle of a dedicated gourmet chef at work; alternatively the small dining area looking out to London Street affords perhaps a more intimate and quieter experience.
The food: It’s times like this I do wish DineOut offered the capability to post images as I am sure you’d enjoy the ones I have!
Cheese bread – a bite-sized ball of joy to begin and to help you settle in for the evening.
With a glass of No.1 Family Estate Cuvee to precede the Pickled radishes, smoked eel, tomato, fennel & flowers it seemed like summer again. The previously alluded-to colours burst from the plate with a naturalness and confidence that exuberantly proffered feelings of happiness in this diner, gifting to the eyes a kind of playful, floral fantasy. The delicacy of the dish with its paper thin wafers of radish, hints of eel so tongue-tantalisingly tiny, but so big on taste, and the yellows, purples & oranges of the flowers drew each of us in to a momentary mini wonderland to the exclusion of the world beyond our table.
In sharp contrast the muted colours of the second course looked far less alluring until, that is, the wintery flavours of carrots and parsnips wrapped their warm arms around you, the beetroot, the kale and the rocket flower tickled the tastebuds to exact affection and a modicum of adulation. A sip or two of a Central Otago Pinot Gris, Mount Edward 2012 seductively sealed the relationship.
The treats and the treatment continued with Corn custard(was I back in China?), capsicum, beans and cured pork loin. A luscious, aerated liquid ornament again with the chef’s signature tiny flower petals atop, adding a touch of elegance and expressing the balance and interplay between the various elements of the dish. The flavours of the cured pork, the textures of capsicum and beans and the unexpectedly palatable taste of the corn custard led one along a path to a place of comfort. And all this enjoyed so convincingly with the substance, strength and refinement of a Tongue in Groove Riesling 2011.
My culinary excursion was far from complete by this time and I knew I had much more to look forward to in the course of the evening. Such ecstacy so definitively rooted in expectation!
Pumpkin gnocchi, egg sauce & homemade bread, olive oil with a glass of House of Ball Chardonnay (2011)from the lovely Waipara region whilst not inciting me to a riot of blessed, uncontrollable but nonetheless ever so grateful gibberish did give rise to the words, in my head, “Isn’t she lovely....” set to the well known music. A bowl of goodness presented with the now well established flair of the master.
Small but beautiful, the trio of quail, oyster mushrooms & jus squatted in wait as I reflected on the 3 syllable calls of this intriguing breed of bird, the essential desirability of the right mushrooms as an accompaniment and the skill required to do justice to these delicate little birds to avoid dryness and stringiness and to capture the very unique essence of taste. What an outstanding piece of work! I wanted to jump out of my seat, rush to the kitchen, embrace Guilo and exclaim my unrequited love....
Christy once again excelled by pairing a nicely aged, comfortable drinking Central Otago Pinot Noir with this little bit of edible heaven, Ellero 2009 from Pisa Terrace. In the words of Bob Campbell: “Ripe, elegant wine with good structure and acidity. Moderately concentrated and impeccably made and balanced Pinot. Supple wine with loads of appeal.”
My life was certainly looking pretty damned good at this stage of the proceedings and the arrival of Merino lamb, onions and New Zealand spinach promised to draw me closer to the point of utter, blissful fulfillment. So tender, so perfectly presented, so immaculately flavoured and so simply adorned with minimal extras, assuring one of a single-minded devotion, without distraction, to the moments when meat meets mouth, portion meets palate, taste cascades over the tongue and fills the chute with all you could possibly want at that particular moment in time. Yet another masterful expression of the culinary art, so well created by Guilo Sturla in his quiet corner of Lyttelton. A Chilean Cab Sauv, Courino Macul, 2011 from the Maipo Valley gracefully shared the Merino’s glory, bathing my lamb and me in a sumptuous swirl .
And yet there was more to come.......a short interlude before a late harvest Sauv. Blanc (Alluviale, 2012 Hawkes Bay)signalled desserts. A beastly tease of quince, yoghurt cream, Black Boy peach ice cream, bright yellow petals, palate-pleasing-to-the-point-of -decadence flavours and more to rest with after the journey. Again, a well considered, well executed combination; nothing less than a champion in its class for presentation, flair, texture and taste.
To finish, coffee cream & chocolate ganache with a Clearview Sea Red, Fortified Merlot from Hawkes bay.
I will most certainly return.
Under $600 for three.

Euro, Auckland

April 2014

New Zealand certainly has its share of celebrity chefs, some having achieved their reputations through consistently delivering high quality food and excellent service in their long established restaurants. Along the way, recognised and respected culinary awards have been achieved. Others have done this also but have fast-tracked their catapultic rises to national prominence by participating in television shows that have made them household names. The cynical of us have oft wondered what all the fuss is about as many celeb chefs are seldom seen in their kitchens – some have so many establishments it would be an unreasonable expectation for them to do anything other than cut, chop and curse their way through airport terminals en route to book launches, South Sea island rendezvous and occasional face to faces with their staff in faraway places.
I reflect back to the lunch I enjoyed at the Fat Duck a couple of years ago. I dined there, knowing full well that Heston was not going to be involved in any direct, tangible way in the preparation of my fare. My expectations were that this would be carried out by a group of exceptional craftsmen and women who had either been trained by the Master himself or who had natural talent and abilities commensurate with the precise facsimileing, in taste, flavour and presentation, of dishes made famous by the celeb himself. I was not disappointed...
Here in New Zealand Simon Gault is one of our own and we should be proud of him, notwithstanding his inability(in terms of time)and no doubt his reluctance to return too frequently to the kitchen of his highly regarded restaurant, Euro, on Auckland’s waterfront...or indeed to any of his other 6 or is it 7 restaurants around the country.
I booked in for lunch some weeks ago, knowing that Euro was offering diners a dozen freshly shucked Bluff oysters for a mere $19.00. What a marvellous marketing move on Simon’s part! The restaurant was packed and everyone seemed to be enjoying oysters - why wouldn’t they? The upshot was that most people who came for oysters stayed for other items on the menu and had a glass or two of wine. I certainly did.
This is my third visit to Euro and what draws me to the restaurant is the excellent service, to me an integral part of any dining out experience. Yes, there’s the food of course, perhaps even more important but here in New Zealand we do struggle with good service. It’s not a given that you’re going to get it even in a high end establishment. Whilst the same could be said of food there are some ‘safe bets’ in my book. Euro is one of them.
Celebrity chefs do have to ensure that what is going out to the tables is spot on and that customers have little, if nothing, to complain about. They have to be very selective about their staff choices and need to know that their reputations are in good hands when they are away writing books, signing books, appearing on television and so on.
During my lunch I spotted Simon Gault moving about the restaurant, talking to his staff and spending time checking what was happening in the kitchen. I was pleased to see him on the job as it were! Any mistakes could cost him as the media, I’m sure, would be keen to make a meal of any lapses...his reputation might suffer especially – a case of the judge being judged.
My delightful oysters were paired both with a glass of Vavasour Claudius Sauv Blanc and a gentle harbour breeze which set the scene so wonderfully well. I watched the quiet glide of vessels large and small moving in and out of the nearby berths as I, equally quietly, luged each oyster down the oesophageal chute...surely one of life’s more luxurious moments. I recommend the freshly shucked experience. Turn your back on the plastic pottles.
Peking Duck is not something you might immediately associate with a restaurant named Euro but as a starter here it has been on the menu for some time. A miniature yet successful interpretation of the grand Chinese dish but which still offers you, the diner, the opportunity to engage in your own bit of table top theatre, to interact with your meal and patiently move through the accepted process of preparing the Chinese pancake with slivers of vegetable, a moist piece of duckmeat, a leaf of crispy roasted skin and the thick, decadent Hoisin sauce , cashew dukkha and chipottle slaw. I liked this cheeky little number. A Nevis Bluff Pinot Noir sat comfortably if not a tad flirtatiously alongside this Euro-Oriental meeting.
My three hour lunch was well underway by this time and as I immersed myself deeper into the menu more ships, yachts and boats slid by, no more than 25 metres from my table. A glance back along the pier from my privileged vantage point captured the Sky Tower, a giant finger held aloft to the world!
A man-sized, medium-rare grass-fed Angus eye fillet for $39.50 represented good value and so it was...faultlessly cooked,it came with potato truffle and a jar of creamed spinach and horseradish jus, each one complementing the other to effectively deliver a dishy quartet of poetic expression much appreciated, especially so when honoured by the Sebastiani Cab Sauv as an added temptation. A substantial side of courgettes nicely balanced the weight and volume of the beef bringing its own satisfying textural plantlike qualities to the fore.
By the time I left my pockets had been emptied of $150 but my sense of satisfaction and, in some ways, personal accomplishment had been heightened as I was, indeed, replete.

The Grill - Auckland

April 2014

The Grill, by Sean Connelly, in Federal Street, Auckland, has enjoyed a lot of publicity extending back to its pre-inception days when we saw on national television an empty space transformed over many months into a working restaurant.
The use of words and phrases in its promotional material like “fresh, honest fare” and “let the natural flavours shine through” drew me in from day one but on each of my many visits to Auckland over the past two years I had not managed to fit the restaurant in to my schedule. Two week ago that changed and I opted for a booking very early on a Thursday evening, a time when I knew I would be able to appreciate the surroundings in my own time before the expected Thursday night influx of guests. A good decision, as it turned out, as the place was full by 7.30 and noise levels in what is essentially a relatively small dining area had increased exponentially from minimal decibels to an almost thunderous murmur of conversation.
I was able to consult the wine list in the pre-crowd peacefulness, contemplate the ‘Butcher’s Block’ choices and engage in that universally favourite pastime, people watching, as guests steadily rolled in.
A bottle of Herzog Spirit of Marlborough 2004 seemed entirely fitting for the occasion of my inaugural meaty chow down at this bastion of beef. Such an elegant but strong and sophisticated wine that eminently lent itself to a pre-dinner liquid liaison yet held enough boldness of character, richness and depth to follow through with unflinchingly attractive credentials and palate pleasing conversation so well suited to the enjoyment and enhancement of a 560g pasture fed Savannah Angus ribeye aged on the bone. A mouthful of a sentence, admittedly, but very apt for a wine of this intensity and character, and a cut of beef so all embracing.
Of course, the decision to run with the pasture fed Angus was motivated by nothing other than my accepted status as a dedicated roué, a driving hunger, a carnivorous urge to sink my teeth into the most local of the line up and a desire to linger in the very comfortable, mood-lit atmosphere of the restaurant. Good wine, good food, a pleasant venue and exceptional service truly do combine to ensure a customer derives more than adequate satisfaction from a dining out experience. This restaurant delivered these, indisputably, to me on this night.
With my giant-sized slab of medium rare beast I knew the red wine jus and the garlic and parsley butter had to work. On the side for a small additional fee came vibrant green beans with appreciable chunks of goats cheese, adding a touch of texture, another layer of sensation for the palate. All the elements seemed so thoroughly present on my plates, the beef tender, beautifully cooked, lingering, comfortable and full of the almost indescribably luxurious flavour so alluring to the meat-eater.
The evening drew gently to a close two or more hours later and as I now reflect on the experience I’m able to once again thank my waiter, Jarrod, for his exceptional service, perceptive wine recommendations and very obliging attitude. His efforts on the night doubled my enjoyment and it is reassuring to know such a level of service can still be had in New Zealand.
Dinner for one, including fine wines but excluding the tip for the waiter: Under $400.00.
Without wine you could come in under $100 if you absolutely had to and that would give you a main plus side plus coffee etc.......
I will return

Little Bird Unbakery - Ponsonby, Auckland

April 2014

A couple of weeks ago I found myself, largely glee-filled, on the doorstep of our most populous city, Auckland, in search of a series of uplifting, stomach-filling, mind-enriching and uniquely memorable culinary experiences that many might suggest are available only in a city large enough to make such exceptionalisms commercially viable.
With a mere three days to play with and a plethora of immovable negatives and slippery impediments such as psyche damaging business appointments and a full day seminar I knew I’d have to compromise in some way.
One certainty prevailed, however, and that was my intention and my fervent desire to flee the Viaduct, albeit for a moment in time, to meet one of the nation's most gifted and remarkable young women, an up and coming star in the world of Wholefoods, Holistic Health and, yum yum, raw foods! Amelia Mckenzie was my lunch companion at the Little Bird Cafe, the Unbakery in Summer St, Ponsonby. What an experience – a very busy establishment with all tables occupied when I arrived at about noon with a twenty minute wait for a ‘space’ and maybe longer for a table.
The food being enjoyed by those already seated looked more than appealing, dazzling natural colours artistically arranged on plates alongside texturous mounds of goodness knows what...and goodness I’m sure it had to be...palatable packages of unadulterated foods, full of vibrancy and verve, all complete in their essential rawness. Add to this the company of a lovely young lady and Mr Lu was a happy man indeed!
When our turn came I was very excited, perhaps more than I am usually! I had dined the evening before at Sean Connelly’s The Grill and loved beyond all belief the beautiful steak I had but at the Little Bird my expectations were at their highest level. I knew from comments that had been made to me and recommendations from many in the hospitality industry that Little Bird was something special.
Amelia and I shared several dishes, Raw pizza, a “Bird Bowl” and a Raw Mexican plate, accompanied by, in my case, a pot of Imperial Yunnan Silver Needle tea. (Yunnan Province in China, of course, being the home of some remarkable teas including Pu Er, arguably China’s finest.)
The raw Mexican plate resplendent in its coat of many gentle colours, muted greens, pale oranges, browns, creams and reds. So many textures from the thick, soft consistency of the avocado(Little Bird’s guacamole) to the piquancy of the pesto and the sharp hatchet of the jalopeno, the delicate leafiness of the sprouts, the juiciness of the capsicum, the fresh zestfulness of the yoghurt and the lemon and the almost flavourless but entirely fitting contrast of the ‘Mexican Crackers’ - soft raw corn tacos. I’m sure I jumped around with joy at the delightful texture of the dirty rice, in fact, a blend of macadamia and parsnip I was later advised. Top all this off with a sprinkling of cashew nut cheese and you have nothing less than a magically macoronic, very mesmerising, soundly based and somewhat simple yet strangely complex feast of inestimable value. Nothing heated over 46 degs C, nothing cooked, no nutritional value lost in ‘transformation’.
Let us now pay homage, no less, to the Raw pizza, another of the Unbakery’s delightful offerings to the culinary world. A raw pizza bread topped with “marinated courgette strips, fresh basil pesto, pomodoro sauce, herbed cream cheese, olives, pinenuts and rocket and a side salad .” Amelia tells me that the base is essentially made of activated flaxseeds, almonds and sunflower seeds; the herbed cream cheese most likely made from soaked cashew nuts with probiotics added before fermentation to achieve a savoury taste. This is so far from the ‘cook it and serve it’ philosophy of so many commercial kitchens in New Zealand at the moment and is a resounding success with already converted customers and those, like me, who relish opportunities to experience culinary excellence in all its forms. There’s more than a modicum of thought, care and effort that goes into these dishes and it’s undeniably exciting to experience the fruits of the ‘chefs’ ‘ labours and savour the flavours in their various forms. Too good to be true for anyone interested in food.
What could be more appropriate at the Little Bird Unbakery than to order a ‘Bird Bowl’? Described by the establishment as a nutritious bowl of cumin spiced quinoa, wild rice and red canihua (baby quinoa)pilaf surrounded by an assortment of delicious salads – avocado & fennel, shaved kale with preserved lemon, herbed cashew cheese & activated walnuts, marinated beet , Granny Smith noodles with mint and parsely.....and, housemade kraut slaw with celery, apple and dill.
Is this cutting edge stuff? Maybe, maybe not as the raw food movement has been around for some time but I think Little Bird has effectively taken it to the next level and given us all an insight into how potentially tasty and flavoursome raw food can be. Fear not my fellow carnivores – see the emergence of this exceptional culinary step forward as just that – a step forward. Enhance your dining experience by going at once to the Little Bird and wrapping your blood-stained beaks around their appealing creations, tittup like there’s no tomorrow and expand your gustatory horizons in a most delectable way!
I went but once and from Summer St, Ponsonby, dashed to the airport. I have missed Little Bird since and lament that there is not a raw food cafe of this calibre in Christchurch.
I will, of course, return, beak at the ready, when next in Auckland.

Sala Sala Japanese Restaurant - Christchurch

April 2014

The reincarnation of the stylish Japanese restaurant, Sala Sala in Merivale is cause for jubilation. Its new home boasts a stylish, sharp fit-out, a fine blend of the traditional and the avant-garde, black and grey decor, original wooden floorboards and the captivation of an open view kitchen.
The relatively small dining room itself promises a level of intimacy commensurate with enjoying a meal and being able to hear others at your table speak without excessively loud music. A treat indeed!
A weekday lunch recently was my fourth visit to this restaurant in three months and was again marked by the consummate professionalism and charm of the maitre d, the well managed, efficient service on the floor, the beauty of presentation in the plate up and, without any doubt at all, the opulence of taste, the depths of flavour and the tantalising touches of texture. Very much a melange of delights to pleasure the senses and spark a gladness within.
There is a sense of craftsmanship in Japanese food that runs across the broad spectrum of food choices; you’ll not find Flintstone steaks but exquisitely prepared offerings, delicately arranged on the plates, alluringly placed to both excite and tease the palate in expectation. As well as this, the use of chopsticks allows one to eat at a civilised pace, to gently savour individual flavours, tiptoe through the kaleidoscopic assemblages of hues and deeply colorific edible formations and dance to the tune of innocently titillating taste sensations, long to be remembered.
Soon after settling into the comfort of my chair I was baptised by the graceful, middle ground of a Middle Earth Riesling, its cooling flow a blessing, no less. With gladness of heart and hunger of gut I plundered my “Assortment of Sashimi” pausing frequently to blissfully savour the exquisite textures and individual flavours of the thickly sliced, mini ‘paving stones’ of tuna, the more thinly sliced but equally goluptious groper, the pale slabs of terakihi and the oh so soft, succulent, effulgent salmon. Truly a meal very high up on the scale of my personal satisfactometer.
If you’re not as much a fan of sashimi as I, there are all the other usual and equally palatable options such as tempura, noodles, sushi and so on as well as Teppanyaki. Sit and watch the chefs at play....
My personal thanks to the staff at Sala Sala for consistently excellent service and fresh, beautifully presented food.
I will return

The Curator's House - Christchurch

March 2014

The long and lastingly luscious days of Summer may be over for another year but some tangible, palate pleasing tabatieres of desire remain. One such is the more than agreeable, innocuously named “Seafood Salad” still to be had at the Curator’s House, inside the Botanic Gardens, on the banks of our very own Avon River. It’s not at all easy to find a good salad in Christchurch but this restaurant has exceeded expectations and succeeded where others have failed. One very hot and somewhat humid January day I found myself walking up the steps, onto the verandah and in through the front door of this beautiful old stone building to immediate relief from the midday sun. The Banks Peninsula volcanic stone, a feature of the exterior of the house, provides a special sense of history, a feeling of security in a shaky world and great insulation.
Back to the seafood salad.....a vision of beauty, a sight to behold, a profusion, yes a profusion of summer colours and a spectacular tango of taste with all the honesty that true freshness can offer. Light yet lip-smacking, a leafy, flower-filled gallimaufry with the generosity of marine life to add another dimension and a sense of substantiality to the whole. Few dishes of the tens of thousands I have enjoyed over the years have left me with such an unmistakable, uncontrollable urge to return time and time again, week after week, for more
To further enhance my outrageous good fortune wine was taken in between the beautiful morsels; there was St Clair Sauvignon Blanc and Framingham Pinot Gris, chilled appropriately and served promptly when ordered.
Since January I have returned three times for this dish and each time it has been faithfully and consistently recreated to reflect the original eye-catching presentation and to capture the quintessence of summer on a plate. It will disappear from the menu soon, of that I am certain, and I will then know that the golden weather has ended.

The Williamson - Grey Lynn, Auckland

April 2013

The Williamson
With loose change in my pocket, a rental car with a hot, traffic-beaten engine and no GPS, I stumbled unknowingly on a café in Ponsonby whilst gracing the City of Sails with my presence three weeks ago.
The tables on the footpath and the imposing presence of the light brick, early 20th century building with a bell tower caught my eye, as I was looking for a lunch spot, any lunch spot that wasn’t on a busy road or crammed full of patrons.
The Williamson looked a likely target and in I rushed; joy of joys, only two others inside and a couple on the footpath! What’s more, the free WiFi enabled me to happily fiddle away on my laptop and check all manner of inane messages on Twitter, on my battery-life challenged not-so-smart Smartphone.
I wasn’t expecting a culinary ‘high’ at this café but sensed that good home-style fare with a dash of flair might be available. The cabinet was comfortably stocked without being impressive, the espresso machine hot and boasting its beany aromas and the two guys behind the counter keen to oblige this customer.
I’d fled a series of less than inspirational meetings in Mt Albert to seek out a simple lunch, with no particular type of food in mind. I was an open mind with an open mouth, ready, willing and able to be tantilised. Even something traditional and simple in its execution, presentation and taste might suit….and so it was!
Mince on toast with an egg on top. Don’t you just love it? I did and it was a dish I hadn’t had in a long time, many years in fact, the thrill of loading the hot, tasty mush of mince onto the soon-to -be soggy toast a cause of considerable inner excitement. This was like a belated breakfast fix and came with an espresso that delivered every bit the slap and tickle I expected. A second coffee was entirely appropriate as I wanted to linger and not only infuse the caffeine but also soak up the atmosphere well evident in the old firestation, the heavy beams overhead, the original old station doors and the polished concrete floors below…….a delight for this post-earthquake, historic building starved Christchurch resident.
An hour later I was back on Dominion Rd hoping I could find my way back to Mt Albert then onward to Manukau & my evening Air New Zealand flight south.

The Lakehouse Restaurant - Ashburton

23rd April 2013


The Lakehouse Restaurant
What a romantic notion the thought of a lakehouse can be. One conjures up images of something special on the shores of a lake…a place where one can do nought but relax and take in the views, suck in fresh country air and luxuriate far from the push and shove of the daily grind. Lake Hood, near Ashburton, boasts its own restaurant which sits on the banks of this 80 hectare, man-made yet very attractive waterway.
Modern, spacious and known for its excellent local and regional food, the restaurant has often been a potential dinner destination but, alas, always a bridge too far for me. I am invariably dashing past or through Ashburton en route to Otago or wherever and haven’t ever factored in a stop. Naughty boy me!
The great love of my life just happens to be a helicopter pilot and she recently insisted that we should fire up the engines of the ‘44” and fly down, with friends, to Lake Hood for dinner one warm and balmy late summer evening. How could any self-respecting, female-helicopter-pilot-loving man refuse an offer like that? And so it was….
The run across the Canterbury Plains is nothing less than truly uplifting…in more ways than one…..and the patchwork of paddocks a brilliant expression of the tidiness of modern farming! The wonderful thing about helicoptering is the relatively low altitude one flies at; this is fantastic from the snoop value point of view as you can see just what is going on in every backyard. Not that I ever meant to pry…
Back to the story. Arriving at The Lakehouse is easy as they have a suitable expanse of lawn at the side of the restaurant tailor-made for a smooth landing.
Inside, the quality of service is immediately foretold by the warm welcome extended by the Maitre’d. Our table was in the great chamber of the main dining area, offering views to the lake, fine settings and a menu one can warm to instantly.
Champagne for some of us (not the pilot of course), fresh Bluff oysters ( a dozen no less and at a mere $35), wild Atlantic scallops with crispy bacon, warm house bread & dips – entirely adequate to start and each presented lovingly by the lovely mother hen waitress. A pinot gris, a Riesling and a Pinot noir soon found their way onto the table, all welcomed with a gush of joy and sipped with commensurate appreciation.
I have never liked the term “Signature Dish” but, that opinion aside, the restaurant does have two damn fine Siggy dishes, “A Trio of Wild Game” and “Oceans Trio O’ Fish”. This was no flight of fancy for me as I knew the reality was that I would be eating the former, wild fallow venison rump, rare, wild pork and wild goat fillets all hunted in the Te Anau, Milford area of the South island. Such unspeakably fine provenance! Add a cluster of roast gourmet potatoes, Kumara rosti , a smattering of greens in brilliant verdancy and tasty tasting tubs of wild condiments. How much you ask? A gift at $42 – can you believe it?
Wild game is not for everyone but if you want to experience a distinctiveness of flavour, quite unlike your traditional fillet steak, a strong, gamey taste you might say, but exuding the essence of the mountains, the spirit of the Southern Alps, the raw ferity of undomesticated, un-farmed natural meat then give it a go!
Alongside the roast potatoes and the indigenous Kumara, coupled with the clean & naturally refreshing green leaves, the meats in all their chunky, mountainous magnificence, were tamed ever so slightly to offer a culinary ride worth taking. Paired with a smooth and complete Merlot to soften the rough edges the experience was more than palatable and certainly memorable.
In spite of the somewhat lackluster reviews this restaurant has attracted in recent times my own experience was far from mediocre. My thanks to the chef and the FOH staff for a good job all round.

Beach Bar Sumner

21st April 2013


Beach Bar
My dinner engagement with a retired, “onion-goggle-wearing” Regimental Sergeant Major and his extended family on the occasion of his birthday was nothing short of a spectacular excursion into the alluring warmth of euphoria; with irrepressible wit and wearing the cloak of the unforgettable bon vivant, the host played well-practised tunes of delight through the evening on his instruments of choice, hilarity & loquacity.
In between the multifarious frivolities we took time out to eat and drink! This venue, now the Beach Bar, has had a number of former lives and, notwithstanding its unique location on the very sands of Sumner Beach, has historically failed to inspire the accolades that other, less well-located rivals, have attracted. In other parts of the world restaurants in such prized spots seem to fare better…
With a name like Beach Bar the first thought is that the drinks are likely to be the essential driver of this business with food coming a clear second. I’m still trying to ‘get my head around’ this as I’d have thought the daytime/lunchtime trade in this location would have predicated a focus more on food than alcohol. The bar that greets one on entry is certainly a major feature of the establishment and there are comfortable couches for arrivees to congregate on and about before going further. The outside deck, wrapping around two sides, is wide and inviting providing the wind isn’t blowing and the weather summery as opposed to wintry.
Deeper into the interior space one finds tables set up for the business of eating and all have a view as they are sited at the sea end of the building. We were a challenging table of many, and even had two Australians with us, so a test for the chef and his team of servers.
A broad range of items on the menu were ordered by all throughout the evening along with a bottle or two of wine, more than a modicum of beer, water, and non-alcohol juices.
Shared entrees will often work well with a group as each diner is able to sample, across the board, what is on offer. This presupposes that a cross-section of food is ordered. We nibbled on House baked ciabatta & rye bread with marinated tomato, extra virgin Olive oil & garlic butter,
Grilled artichokes & marinated olives, “Skargen; Germany's take on the prawn cocktail, yummy prawns on toast!” and Salmon gravlax with sauce remoulade & crispy capers. The grilled artichokes were especially enjoyable, a brilliant way to eat this popular thistle species, with the remote expectation that their aphrodisiac properties, always in the mind, will work…
My main course, described on the menu as, “Aged Angus sirloin on wasabi potato puree with edamame, soy mushroom, radish, fried lotus root & shiso cress “ was a mere $28, an entirely reasonable cost in today’s restaurant pricing for a main. Of course, as in many establishments these days one is always tempted to add a side, just to bulk things up a little or perhaps because the thought of a little something extra and tantalizing is too good to resist. …and so, roast carrots in Orange & Lemon butter… all of the above, side by side at first, intermingled second then, lastly, eaten with relish. An excellent array of flavours, the beef, beautifully cooked, tender and rare, the potato puree with hints of wasabi, the radish, mushroom and lotus tastily helping with the show and, always a favourite in taste and appearance, the edamame arranged in a pebbled path across the plate. Combine this happy, jiving medley with roast carrots infused with flavours of orange and lemon and more than a modicum of satisfaction is guaranteed.
Happy birthday Brian!

Maruia River Lodge and Cafe

17th April 2013

On the road to Murchison there lies a pleasant surprise for the thirsty and hungry traveller. Be you a cyclist, a motorcyclist, a motorist, a truck driver or an alien visitor from another planet wanting to experience true South Island hospitality, you may well find what you want at the Maruia River Lodge & Café. I have thundered past this upmarket property many times in all manner of craft, chariots powered by petrol, diesel, human grunt and heaving lungs but it is only very recently that I spotted a sandwich board advertising café……
Naturally enough, as a person whose daily existence is defined by the consumption of food largely from other peoples’ kitchens I had to stop and investigate.
The temperatures were high on the Mercury gauge and the infamous West Coast sandflies were rampant in their desire to take blood from my veins. Nonetheless, I was intent on sitting outside on the verandah, beneath the ivy (or was it Wisteria?). The management kindly supplied a range of spray on insect repellents, gratis, which, when liberally applied to the exposed skin, worked marvelously well.
Green tea was the order of the day, with a dockworker-sized ham and mustard sandwich, garnished, nay, blessed, with an assortment of garden- sourced goodness. This simple, worthy recipient of my mealtime attention was delicious, filling and was made for me while I sipped my tea - Home baked bread of mouthfilling chunkiness through and through, thick slices of local, flavoursome ham and bright salad ingredients. More than this, though, the service was genuinely friendly, helpful, professional and in keeping with the quality and standing of the Lodge. I felt I was being ‘looked after’ very appropriately during my 45 minute stay.
The venue offers superb accommodation, spectacular evening dinners boasting middle to upper South island produce, a good wine selection, outstanding river and mountain views and complimentary WiFi if you need to check your emails……or Skype a friend!
My visit was a lunch snack-stop only but I resolved to stay longer on my next trip through the region in the hope of experiencing one of the much-talked-about evening meals……and the Brown Trout fly-fishing in the Maruia River is claimed to be the very best in the country.

Herb Centre Cafe

16th April 2013

After a morning of meaninglful but unhelpful property-related mess-ups, I suddenly found myself in the Garden of Eden….on Kilmore Street. The cares of the world, well, my world anyway, were swept away by a gentle puff of wind and my position beneath the healthiest of teenage fig trees secured for me a state of unassailable contentment. Not more than 100 centimetres from my right elbow two plump, flighty bees were going about their most excellent business amongst the violet blue flowers on the Rosemary bushes, paying no attention to me whatsoever. I felt at home in such a welcoming, peaceful environment and was given more reason to exclaim my happiness when the gentle Autumn sun floodlit my table in a gracious sign of acceptance.
In a short while, my overworked and tragelaph –like body was to be appropriately disciplined with a strong espresso, the very Switch of pleasure it could be said.
The Barista and waitress, a talented girl from Germany perhaps, swished by with a second espresso, its grasp so compelling, its crema so comforting, its taste a tribute to the Switch brand. Next came my reward for not sinning as much today as I did yesterday – café romance! Yes, a fantastic, fresh and wholesome, cheerful gallimaufry of salads and individual vegetables, each vying for the honour of opening the Opera, handing me the Engagement ring, singing from the mountaintops…..
There was Carrot & beetroot, home made potato salad, lettuce, bean sprouts, radish, cucumber, broccoli, herbs and spices, wild rice and an Indian rosti with a cheeky chutney. The colours, so full and fecund, refulgent and beautifully elemental.
How can I not return for more of this passion amidst the midday madness, roadworks, cranes and cacophony of stapleguns in contemporary Christchurch?

Hippopotamus

APRIL 2013

Hippopotamus
God moves in mysterious ways or so I was once told by an aspirant to the Papacy. I have dined at some of the world’s very best restaurants and have long since accepted that the Almighty, believe it or not, must have a hand in the kitchens of more than a few of them.
Standards vary and peoples’ perceptions of what represents good service differ from one culture to the next; in New Zealand we have relatively low standards of service and, as a general rule, mediocre levels of culinary creativity. Some in the Kiwi gastro community wonder if this is why we have never managed to get a nomination in the S. Pelligrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants……
My own view, firmly held, is that we do have some truly worthy superstars in New Zealand who day after day deliver electrifyingly sensational, saporous offerings of edible personality, spun with an artistry hard to find in the world at large.
And so to Hippopotamus, one of Wellington’s treasures for the gourmet, powered along by the efforts of a well-schooled team overseen by Executive Chef Laurent Loudeac. This was not my first time at this restaurant but on my frequent visits to the Capital I have striven to find the time to get a lunch or a dinner in.
Entering the Museum Hotel is like leaving the fiction of life behind for the truth of Art in all its forms. The dinner guest is blessed at once with the expectation of seeing, up close and personal, magnificent, original artworks on resplendent display throughout the groundfloor spaces.
On Level 3 of the hotel is to be found Hippopotamus Restaurant, exuding Parisian glamour and opulence in décor, boasting an exquisite menu, far-reaching, carefully compiled wine list and impressive, much-valued supererogatory service overseen by Maitre’d, Frenchman Timothy Lepoutre.
A delicate sampling in the form of an Amuse Bouche of salmon & caviar shared with a glass of Louis Roederer Rose (2007) was a perfect way to glide into the evening and await les entrees -
“Tortellini de Kikorangi sur poireaux a la crème” and “Tortellini d’escargot et puree de petit pois”. The attention to detail and the surprisingly eye-catching presentation of both these dishes offered immediate gratification, eminently followed up by gentle waves of subtle flavours so finely embedded in the whole.
The Granny Smith crackling and the walnut crumble in the first mentioned dish were true examples of this.
Our experience continued with perfect pauses between courses and a range of wines that included Rene Mure Riesling, Trinity Hill Viognier, Banyuls, Elderton Shiraz(2009) and 7 glasses of CP Lin’s acclaimed Mountford Hommage A’L’Alsace(2009), all over a period of 5 hours and, of course, interspersed with numerous litres of water.
The main courses, or Les plats princpaux as described on the menu, offered some exciting prospects and for me it came down to a choice between two beef dishes, the “Beef fillet with braised beef cheek pithivier, braised beef short rib, horseradish soufflé & mushroom jus” and the “Rib of beef with béarnaise, hand cut fries & sautéed green beans with shallots.” With the beef fillet, my choice, came a side of green beans tossed in butter with a walnut and feta crumble, another beautiful example of careful, creative presentation coupled with flavour matching to offer top line taste sensations. Encounters with such harmonious combinations of exquisite food, plated so alluringly and joyfully and truthfully trumpeting a gift of worshipful flavours engender a desire for immediate, heartfelt genuflection.
A glass of Banyuls, four fine French cheeses from the well-stocked trolley and a truly comprehensive explanation of each from our waiter, Antoine. Comte, an ancient, salty, complex, nutty cheese so delightful to start the closing stages of a fine dinner. Follow this with none other than a camembert from Normandy, a delicate, charcoal ash covered Valencay and a lovely, gracious Roquefort, the pride of the Massif-Central.
Fully relaxed and thoroughly satisfied we adjourned to the elegance of the harbour views, the agreeable countenances of stuffed peacocks and the prospect of good coffee and a further tipple or two in the Hippopotamus Bar.