Mercato Cafe & Delicatessen

Oh how Fitzgerald Avenue has changed in recent years! That grand boulevard of mature trees and quaint pre and post Victorian buildings has given way to three lanes a side, bland concrete structures of questionable architectural merit and arboreal decimation. Most of us simply want to pass by, without a glimpse on either side along what is an uninteresting tunnel of drudge...and so it has been for me these past several years.
However, last week I met a business associate for a light lunch at Mercato Cafe, in the midst of all this horror. Tucked in behind a street frontage featuring a carpark is to be found this surprisingly meritorious establishment with more to it than meets the eye at first glance. A splendid European delicatessen greets the new entrant and one must pass by the colourful, fully stocked shelves to arrive at the small, 19+ seat cafe in the north-western corner of the shop. Whilst the lunch menu is not at all comprehensive the selection, I suspect, changes daily and is of a high epicurean standard. Mercato, it seems, is capable of bringing a blip of bliss to all ye who hunger for le snack in le cafe at le lunchtime.
My own flash of ecstacy came in the form of a Pea, spinach and Brie de Meaux tart with a side of exhilaration closely resembling a Green leaf, carrot and mandarin salad. All so delicate in texture and a simple fusion of flavours that brought lasting refreshment to the palate and enough sustenance to adequately bridge the gap from lunch to dinner, modest though the servings were.
Although the cafe seats so few it offers its guests the chirpy chatter of a lunchtime crowd, the aroma of freshly made coffee and a joyful intimacy. After indulging your rumbling stomach the temptation of the adjoining deli is sure to capture your heart & soul, if not the contents of your wallet. Perhaps a few hundred grams of muscatel raisins on vine, maybe a tin of Burgundy escargots, a slice or two of Spanish or Italian chorizo.......then there are the multitudinous European cheeses to die for ....
Enter this oasis in the desert, stay a while and quench your thirst. You could well be pleased with yourself afterwards.

Gorilla - Eatery & Drinking Room

The celebratory day has finally arrived! And not just because it’s early on Christmas morning but because Ferrymead is now home to our very own expression of culinary art, in the inimitable guise of a local Gorilla . Jonny Schwass has never been one to ape anyone else in the industry and this new venture, which I suspect is a mere stepping stone along the way for him, does continue his talented exploration of subtle taste differences, fun flavours as well as interesting and eminently workable textural combinations in the food offered.
The theming is minimal but it’s evident, and the generous table settings in the front courtyard catch the sun beautifully.
The menu, which I believe will change regularly, offers snack-sized choices across the usual range but with Jonny’s own confident touch. Pork fat peanuts, chilli & crackling, Onion soup dumplings or perhaps, “My mum’s curried eggs”?
For the more substantial eater there is 24-hour lamb belly with peas and carrots, Pulled pork shoulder, tacos & red apple coleslaw or Lambs tongue, pickling onions & broad beans. The Salmon belly salad, asparagus & boiled egg gherkin I espied on an adjoining table looked particularly enticing.
A glass of Peg Bay Riesling with the onion soup dumplings was enough to initially satisfy my flickering flames of hungry (and thirsty)desire, the four ‘wonton style’ parcels delivering just enough body and soul to tickle the tastebuds, fill the void and set my heart asinging. Be aware that the word ‘soup’ is used in a liberal sense here! There’s nothing floating…
Jonny’s expertise and voluminous talent in bringing out the very best in local fare in its journey from pasture to plate is no mean feat as so much can affect the final outcome. Tasting the chunky but elegant slices of the lamb belly took me back to St John Restaurant in Smithfield, London and the sense that I was once again in the hands of a practitioner who loves his vocation and delivers his passion to the table. The edible componentry of the dish regaled unreservedly and sang of its superb provenance and care of preparation. The freshly-podded peas were particularly impressive and nothing short of exquisite.
The time for settling for second best in Christchurch is over! I’m pleased Mr Schwass has returned and I will return to the arms of the Gorilla for more samplings over the summer.

Bamboozle - Philip Kraal's Oriental Fusion Kitchen & bar

Ever since the September 4th 2010 earthquake I have been thoroughly perplexed, bewildered, bedraggled by dealings with EQC and, quite simply, bamboozled beyond belief. No doubt many of you, dear readers, have suffered the same fate. You can now enjoy being bamboozled in an entirely pleasurable way by the seaside.
One can only admire Philip Kraal of Le Bon Bolli and Crumpet Club fame for yet again responding with accomplished elan in opening his newest enterprise ‘Bamboozle Oriental Fusion Kitchen & Bar’ in Sumner. A damn fine name if I may say so and as one of the fortunates lucky enough to have managed to get a table on opening night I can tell you that the name says it all.
Philip and his team have created a beautiful, themed getaway complete with authentic rickshaw suspended from the ceiling and mood lighting to introduce you, the diner, to his latest experience. Let it be here stated that he does deliver interesting encounters, challenges preconceived notions and seems always to be thinking of ways to spice up our everyday dining adventures.
The setting is thoughtful, immaculate and sophisticated and you can pop in for a drink at the bar if not intending to dine. The bar and dining areas are suitably partitioned. In the bar you are treated to an excellent view of the kitchen with chefs at work.
What of the food? With a complimentary tantalizer of sesame seaweed & cashews in caramel we settled in to a foodishly frivolous evening of Asian influenced flair. A glass or two of Bayview Farms ‘Orchestration’ Cab Sauv/merlot/franc/malbec/petit verdot 2002 helped us along the way to a first course of “Shag Wok Pot Stickers” filled with wasabi seasoned sea salad & Philadelphia cream cheese – just imagine! A beautiful variation on the dumpling thing.
Lead me into temptation but know that forgiveness will always be available at the end…..Happy Hog, Cantonese crispy skin pork belly on wasabi tomato wafers with Anise, soy & chilli drizzling sauce . What a bamboozling mix but one to be savoured and swooned over. A first night flying fiesta in the newest culinary tabernacle in town, precise, engineered flavours, gentle giants of texture and taste, a myriad of creative visions. All this and more.
To end, a ginger steamed pudding exquisitely emboldened with lime syrup & coffee ice cream. Could you resist this?
Philip Kraal has effectively waved the wand of experience and professional expertise over this new venue and given us all reason to celebrate Oriental influences without too much fried rice and sweet & sour pork as it were.
I’ll be back and it will be soon.