Gorilla - Eatery & Drinking Room

The celebratory day has finally arrived! And not just because it’s early on Christmas morning but because Ferrymead is now home to our very own expression of culinary art, in the inimitable guise of a local Gorilla . Jonny Schwass has never been one to ape anyone else in the industry and this new venture, which I suspect is a mere stepping stone along the way for him, does continue his talented exploration of subtle taste differences, fun flavours as well as interesting and eminently workable textural combinations in the food offered.
The theming is minimal but it’s evident, and the generous table settings in the front courtyard catch the sun beautifully.
The menu, which I believe will change regularly, offers snack-sized choices across the usual range but with Jonny’s own confident touch. Pork fat peanuts, chilli & crackling, Onion soup dumplings or perhaps, “My mum’s curried eggs”?
For the more substantial eater there is 24-hour lamb belly with peas and carrots, Pulled pork shoulder, tacos & red apple coleslaw or Lambs tongue, pickling onions & broad beans. The Salmon belly salad, asparagus & boiled egg gherkin I espied on an adjoining table looked particularly enticing.
A glass of Peg Bay Riesling with the onion soup dumplings was enough to initially satisfy my flickering flames of hungry (and thirsty)desire, the four ‘wonton style’ parcels delivering just enough body and soul to tickle the tastebuds, fill the void and set my heart asinging. Be aware that the word ‘soup’ is used in a liberal sense here! There’s nothing floating…
Jonny’s expertise and voluminous talent in bringing out the very best in local fare in its journey from pasture to plate is no mean feat as so much can affect the final outcome. Tasting the chunky but elegant slices of the lamb belly took me back to St John Restaurant in Smithfield, London and the sense that I was once again in the hands of a practitioner who loves his vocation and delivers his passion to the table. The edible componentry of the dish regaled unreservedly and sang of its superb provenance and care of preparation. The freshly-podded peas were particularly impressive and nothing short of exquisite.
The time for settling for second best in Christchurch is over! I’m pleased Mr Schwass has returned and I will return to the arms of the Gorilla for more samplings over the summer.