Transfixed in the Spell of Excellence

The name of this central city Hamilton restaurant unflinchingly and unselfconsciously  takes your mind  to the 1962 Burl Ives  ballad, Chim Chim Cheree. I suspect that’s quite possibly where any connection ends!  Chim-Choo-Ree doesn’t need any  help to boost its appeal; it stands proud and confident in its small and snuggly position along the main drag of this vibrant North Island metropolis, offering a casual cafe atmosphere with smart, reassuring service and creatively presented food of a refreshingly high standard indeed.

Various acquaintances had recommended Chim-Choo-Ree and so it became the chosen one on a night when I found myself passing through this oft derided younger sister of Auckland. There’s a small town feel to Hamilton with its main street, each side dotted with restaurants, cafes, bars and one or two retail outlets. Admittedly I was there after dark so didn’t manage to see any of the city’s parks, gardens and other public spaces of which I am sure there are many.

We were late in but this was not an issue with the staff and our welcome was noticeable for its genuine warmth. Pinot Gris(Peregrine 2011) to drink accompanied by an exquisite, delicate, palate pleasing amuse bouche settled us at our table with an understated flourish of style, a cherishable moment at the end of a day of travelling.

Bulging, semitransparent and splendidly ambrosial, the rice paper rolls offered a cornucopian escape from reality, a brief but satisfying sashay into tastebud titillation with a strong confidence and fine finish.

It was time for another drop from what was a well put together selection on the wine list, with choices from Central Otago & Martinborough. How could I pass over the opportunity for a swirl, a sniff and a swallow of another of Peregrine’s palatable pedigrees, their pinot noir, described by they themselves as “elegant and bright with aromas of dark cherry and spice. A layered palate of wildberry and blackcurrant fruit combined with a lovely texture and fine tannins.” I couldn’t have put it better myself and how well this wine paired with my main course of lamb rump, so magnificent in stature on the plate, an ovine Olympian so perfectly cooked and hirsute with a bold, verdant toupee of herbs so effectively escalating the excitement with a stunning essence of visuality and vitality. The tender touch of the meat as it passed my lips and graced the very foyer of my person forecasted what was to come for my tastebuds. A fine balance of unmatched flavour and earth-given textures, a celebration in so many ways.
What could one do? Sit, transfixed in the spell of excellence, albeit for a fleeting moment but in the knowledge that a craftsman of cuisine is alive and well in Hamilton today.