April 2014
The Grill, by Sean Connelly, in Federal Street, Auckland, has enjoyed a lot of publicity extending back to its pre-inception days when we saw on national television an empty space transformed over many months into a working restaurant.
The use of words and phrases in its promotional material like “fresh, honest fare” and “let the natural flavours shine through” drew me in from day one but on each of my many visits to Auckland over the past two years I had not managed to fit the restaurant in to my schedule. Two week ago that changed and I opted for a booking very early on a Thursday evening, a time when I knew I would be able to appreciate the surroundings in my own time before the expected Thursday night influx of guests. A good decision, as it turned out, as the place was full by 7.30 and noise levels in what is essentially a relatively small dining area had increased exponentially from minimal decibels to an almost thunderous murmur of conversation.
I was able to consult the wine list in the pre-crowd peacefulness, contemplate the ‘Butcher’s Block’ choices and engage in that universally favourite pastime, people watching, as guests steadily rolled in.
A bottle of Herzog Spirit of Marlborough 2004 seemed entirely fitting for the occasion of my inaugural meaty chow down at this bastion of beef. Such an elegant but strong and sophisticated wine that eminently lent itself to a pre-dinner liquid liaison yet held enough boldness of character, richness and depth to follow through with unflinchingly attractive credentials and palate pleasing conversation so well suited to the enjoyment and enhancement of a 560g pasture fed Savannah Angus ribeye aged on the bone. A mouthful of a sentence, admittedly, but very apt for a wine of this intensity and character, and a cut of beef so all embracing.
Of course, the decision to run with the pasture fed Angus was motivated by nothing other than my accepted status as a dedicated roué, a driving hunger, a carnivorous urge to sink my teeth into the most local of the line up and a desire to linger in the very comfortable, mood-lit atmosphere of the restaurant. Good wine, good food, a pleasant venue and exceptional service truly do combine to ensure a customer derives more than adequate satisfaction from a dining out experience. This restaurant delivered these, indisputably, to me on this night.
With my giant-sized slab of medium rare beast I knew the red wine jus and the garlic and parsley butter had to work. On the side for a small additional fee came vibrant green beans with appreciable chunks of goats cheese, adding a touch of texture, another layer of sensation for the palate. All the elements seemed so thoroughly present on my plates, the beef tender, beautifully cooked, lingering, comfortable and full of the almost indescribably luxurious flavour so alluring to the meat-eater.
The evening drew gently to a close two or more hours later and as I now reflect on the experience I’m able to once again thank my waiter, Jarrod, for his exceptional service, perceptive wine recommendations and very obliging attitude. His efforts on the night doubled my enjoyment and it is reassuring to know such a level of service can still be had in New Zealand.
Dinner for one, including fine wines but excluding the tip for the waiter: Under $400.00.
Without wine you could come in under $100 if you absolutely had to and that would give you a main plus side plus coffee etc.......
I will return
The Grill, by Sean Connelly, in Federal Street, Auckland, has enjoyed a lot of publicity extending back to its pre-inception days when we saw on national television an empty space transformed over many months into a working restaurant.
The use of words and phrases in its promotional material like “fresh, honest fare” and “let the natural flavours shine through” drew me in from day one but on each of my many visits to Auckland over the past two years I had not managed to fit the restaurant in to my schedule. Two week ago that changed and I opted for a booking very early on a Thursday evening, a time when I knew I would be able to appreciate the surroundings in my own time before the expected Thursday night influx of guests. A good decision, as it turned out, as the place was full by 7.30 and noise levels in what is essentially a relatively small dining area had increased exponentially from minimal decibels to an almost thunderous murmur of conversation.
I was able to consult the wine list in the pre-crowd peacefulness, contemplate the ‘Butcher’s Block’ choices and engage in that universally favourite pastime, people watching, as guests steadily rolled in.
A bottle of Herzog Spirit of Marlborough 2004 seemed entirely fitting for the occasion of my inaugural meaty chow down at this bastion of beef. Such an elegant but strong and sophisticated wine that eminently lent itself to a pre-dinner liquid liaison yet held enough boldness of character, richness and depth to follow through with unflinchingly attractive credentials and palate pleasing conversation so well suited to the enjoyment and enhancement of a 560g pasture fed Savannah Angus ribeye aged on the bone. A mouthful of a sentence, admittedly, but very apt for a wine of this intensity and character, and a cut of beef so all embracing.
Of course, the decision to run with the pasture fed Angus was motivated by nothing other than my accepted status as a dedicated roué, a driving hunger, a carnivorous urge to sink my teeth into the most local of the line up and a desire to linger in the very comfortable, mood-lit atmosphere of the restaurant. Good wine, good food, a pleasant venue and exceptional service truly do combine to ensure a customer derives more than adequate satisfaction from a dining out experience. This restaurant delivered these, indisputably, to me on this night.
With my giant-sized slab of medium rare beast I knew the red wine jus and the garlic and parsley butter had to work. On the side for a small additional fee came vibrant green beans with appreciable chunks of goats cheese, adding a touch of texture, another layer of sensation for the palate. All the elements seemed so thoroughly present on my plates, the beef tender, beautifully cooked, lingering, comfortable and full of the almost indescribably luxurious flavour so alluring to the meat-eater.
The evening drew gently to a close two or more hours later and as I now reflect on the experience I’m able to once again thank my waiter, Jarrod, for his exceptional service, perceptive wine recommendations and very obliging attitude. His efforts on the night doubled my enjoyment and it is reassuring to know such a level of service can still be had in New Zealand.
Dinner for one, including fine wines but excluding the tip for the waiter: Under $400.00.
Without wine you could come in under $100 if you absolutely had to and that would give you a main plus side plus coffee etc.......
I will return
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