They came and went in waves, surging along the Fullers ferry accessway before my very eyes. I was seated in pandiculated resplendence, infusing the best of Auckland’s waterside attractions, quietly people watching on a comfortable, elegant, cushion-cluttered couch. Of course, there was purpose in my seeming repose as I was a guest of this city’s newest gastronomic enterprise and was planning to eat, and eat well. The Botswana Butchery has gently seduced us all in recent years in Queenstown and Wanaka, always exhibiting sound touches of elegance, purveying exceptional quality in its exquisite produce and pandering to the tastebuds of discerning carnivores.
In the beautiful, bare-faced, deceitfully warm midday sun I felt I had the world at my fingertips as I sipped a glass of chilled Gibbston Valley Pinot Gris. In fact ‘The World’ was in port at the time and no more than 100 metres from where I was sitting, its well-heeled passengers(or should that be owners)sure to be occupying some of the tables inside the restaurant.
I had time to kill but my first dish, Sashimi of King Salmon. Hapuka Belly & Snapper with Wasabi, Soy Sauce and Pickled Ginger & Harissa sauce wasn’t long in arriving and presented as an effusive, kaleidoscopic burst of freshness, its brilliant natural colours complementing the succulent and satisfying slices from the sea. The pickled ginger & harissa sauce was full flavoured and pounced on the palate with each astounding, tingling, appetizing droplet.
My waiter Kieran, formerly from Aikmans in Christchurch, was well organised, efficient and amicable, at the ready with water refills and to satisfy my vinous demands. This faultless level of professionalism extended, I’m sure, to others in the Butchery’s employ as I was able to observe and hear the courteous and respectful interactions between the Maitre D’ and prospective diners at the nearby entrance.
A 450g ribeye on the bone from an establishment as well regarded as this must meet one’s expectations to 100%. Whilst I concede the cut was a superlative beast in anyone’s estimation, and certainly in mine, it was treated with less than its full respectful entitlement by being offered to me cooked beyond the requested rare to medium. This may well have been a teething problem as the restaurant had been open a mere seven days but cooking such a delicious piece of beef to perfection (or to the diner’s taste) is a non-negotiable matter, in my view. I do not cherish a medium+ treatment of fine meat but am, after all, a forgiving man who understands that running a restaurant is not an easy endeavour. Fortunately I had vicariously harvested grapes on Waiheke island at the Man O’ War winery and was drinking a glass or two of their fine syrah with its smooth, silky complexities and agreeably persuasive manner. I was happy enough......
There’s little doubt that many of us will have fond memories of the old Cin Cin on Quay dating back many years but the emergence of the Botswana Butchery on the same site and in the same premises is a move forward. I have every confidence that the BB will embed itself very quickly into the culinary psyche of Aucklanders and visitors to the city alike but they will need to be vigilant and must sweat the small stuff until all is 100%. Their reputation depends on it. I will return to feast again before the end of winter and I am truly hoping my steak is absolutely perfect. It’s non-negotiable.
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